Article,Outdoor Activities"> Article,Polly Harmer shares the best crags that are easily accessed by public transport from Sheffield - and how to reach them. So you want to go cragging, or bouldering, in the Peak District without a car? No problem. Maybe you don't own a car, or you prefer not to use...">
Polly Harmer shares the best crags that are easily accessed by public transport from Sheffield - and how to reach them.
So you want to go cragging, or bouldering, in the Peak District without a car? No problem. Maybe you don't own a car, or you prefer not to use it to burn less fossil fuel, or maybe you're too young to drive, or your car is broken. Perhaps you prefer to watch the world go by from the bus and avoid the parking problems that can occur in the UK's busiest national park.
Individual car usage leads to a significant carbon footprint. Perhaps, then, using buses and trains for local climbing trips and weekends away could be an important option for climbers to reduce their environmental impact. When I get the bus, I like that it's greener and cheaper. Whatever the motivation, there are lots of options for going car-free out to the grit. Here are some of the entry-level routes for budding bus-goers.
The 257 - Rivelin, Stanage North, Dovestones Tor, Bamford Edge The 257 runs every hour(ish) and takes 20 minutes to Rivelin, 25 minutes to Stanage North and 35 minutes to Bamford. If you're coming from the city centre, this is one of your quickest and easiest routes by bus. Rivelin crag is one of the closest crags to Sheffield and despite having a wildish feel, it's still within the Sheffield city boundary. If you go by bus to Rivelin crag, your walk-in is nearly halved compared to coming by car and parking on the other side of the dam. Rivelin is a special crag, its classics being Croton Oil (HVS 5a) and Blizzard Ridge Direct (E1 5b).
Dovestones Tor can be accessed in just over an hour from the bus stop at Cut Throat bridge. It's a rugged spot with long routes, and Great Buttress (HVS 5a) is worth the hike up there for some wilder summer cragging.
For Stanage North, consider wearing wellies or visiting during a dry spell as you have to cross a healthy bog on the approach. The north end of Stanage Edge has classic routes in the mid grades and low E numbers and is much quieter than the rest of Stanage.
For Bamford Edge, hop off the bus at the Yorkshire Bridge pub and take on the steep warm-up along New Road (below the crag). Bamford Edge is exposed so it dries quickly and has wide open views out over Ladybower. The classic of Bamford is Gargoyle Flake (VS 4c), one of the most photographed grit routes ever.
The 271 and 272 Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield This is another easy bus-to-crag option, taking only 30 minutes from Sheffield and if you're in rush hour traffic, you might get there quicker than by car with the benefit of the bus lane.
For Burbage South, get off at the Burbage Bridge stop and wander up to the crag and its litter of boulders. Due to the easy landings and friendly, fun, lower grade problems, this is a great spot to start bouldering outside.
For Millstone and Lawrencefield, get off at the Surprise View stop. Millstone has many great routes for the VS-E3+ leader. It's quarried rock with mostly cracks, offering top jamming and the potential to place more gear. Lawrencefield is Millstones' smaller neighbour and lies on the other side of the road: Excalibur (VS 4c) and Billy Whizz (E2 5c) above the pond are worthy quests.
The 218 - Gardoms Edge, Birchen Edge, Curbar The 218 gives access to Gardoms and Birchen from the north. There is a campsite and pub to the south, so it can work well for a weekend away. For both these crags, get off at Bar Brook Bridge. The stream of Bar Brook is a popular haunt for Golden-ringed Hawkers, Beautiful Demoiselles and Banded Demoiselles - three of the UK's most stunning dragonflies.
Gardoms Edge is a lovely yet threateningly green spot and is known for its big five (five big-tick E3s). At a more amenable grade, Moyers Buttress (E1 5b) and Apple Arête (VS 4b) are also big grit ticks.
Birchen is easily the best crag for an abundance of awesome lower-grade routes. Emmas Dilemma (S 4a), Topsail (VS 4c), and Horatios Horror (HS 4a) are all good fun. When I was 7, my Dad and I walked here from home in Crookes. We had chips in the pub and slept in the campsite before getting the bus back the next day.
To get to Curbar, get off the 218 at Bar Brook Bridge and walk down Clodhall Lane for 15 minutes until you reach the edge. Curbar has some hard routes of the sort that give grit its reputation. There's lots on offer but Bel Ami (VS 4b), The Peapod (HVS 5b), and Right Eliminate (E3 5c) will all test your grit technique.
65 and 65a - Stoney Middleton These buses take 40 minutes from Sheffield city centre. The bus stops just a five-minute walk from Garage Buttress. There are lots of good sport and trad here, but maybe the Hard Rock tick Alcasan (E2 5c) is the most adventurous route possible in a day from Sheffield by public transport? I've never done it, but I passed it climbing Scoop Wall - another excellent E2 - and it looked wild.
The 57 and 57a Wharncliffe The 57 runs every hour and takes about 40 minutes from the city centre. Get off in Deep Car and wander the extra five minutes to get up to the normal parking. In 1900, this crag was one of the most popular in the country because it was accessible by public transport when there was a train station in Deep Car. During that time a lad called Jim used to walk out here from Sheffield. He and his mates were some of the people who kick-started the trend of climbing up things and giving them names. His popular route Puttrells Progress (S 4a)is a good 12m adventure no matter what grade you climb.
Stanage - the 51, the 271, the 257 or the Hathersage train There is no obvious way to get to Stanage Edge - the most famous crag in the Peak - by bus, but there are a few options. The shortest bus ride is to take the 51 to its terminus in Lodge Moor and then walk the flat 5km over Redmires and Stanage Pole to end up on top of the Edge.
The other option is to take the 271 to Burbage South and walk up Burbage to Stanage Popular and that's a 4.5 km stroll. Take on the airy classic Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b).
Otherwise, take the train to Hathersage and walk 3km uphill or follow the edge along from Stanage North and the 257.
Sheffield to Manchester slow train - Froggatt, Kinder South For Froggatt Edge, get off the train at the infamous Grindleford train station and walk up past Tumbling Hill to the Froggatt parking (about 1.5km). Froggatt is a charming, sandy-based crag with great routes at all grades. Heather Wall (HVD 3b) is enjoyable, Cave Crawl (S 5a) is a laugh, and Todys Wall (HVS 5a) is a popular one-move wonder. There are also a few contenders for your first E1, E2, E3 or E4 here.
Edale train station gives access to Kinder's southern crags. Flash Wall (VS 5a) at Nether Tor is a fine classic - and what a serene place for a summer's day climbing! I have fond memories of this train-climb-pub return trip.
For more information on public transport routes in the Sheffield area, visit Travel South Yorkshire's website.
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